The ferry crossing to Easdale Island is a short one and on a good day is extremely enjoyable.  However stormy weather can cause the service to be cancelled and sever this vital lifeline for the islanders. Today we were fortunate and the crossing of some two hundred metres was uneventful and smooth.   Easdale is an island of only eleven hectares, and has a population of roughly sixty, probably one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Inner Hebrides.

After meeting Tina, our host for the day, we headed for the quarry where the world stone skimming championships are held.  We passed the  Easdale Island Folk Museum which unfortunately was not open until Easter, but we did see a pair of House Sparrows carrying nesting material into the roof.  We also investigated a hole which could have been the home of a small weasel, stoat or mink .  Several creatures, snakes, rabbits, hedgehogs and mice could be eliminated as they are not to be found on the island.

As we left the white painted rows of cottages several birds we singing marking their territories on this spring morning. A Greenfinch was emitting his nasal wheeze, whilst a Wren began his explosive song only to be drowned by a Song Thrush starting his repetitive call.  Leaving the village behind and walking towards the south we passed beneath what was formerly and old railway viaduct and within a short distance found a small well which could have been the original water supply for the island. To our right was a steep ridge which runs north-west to south-east across the island.  It's ivy covered ledges face south and provide ideal nesting sites for several species of bird. On top of the ridge a Hooded Crow was busily gathering moss to line his nest, whilst below a Greenfinch was checking for nest sites.

In the more sheltered areas Primroses and Lesser Celandine were already in flower.  We also discovered some Scurvy Grass which was extensively eaten in the past by sailors suffering from scurvy after returning from long voyages. The leaves are rich in vitamin C which cures this deficiency disease, resulting from a lack of fresh vegetables in the diet. The leaves, which have a strong peppery taste are similar to the related horseradish and watercress and are also sometimes added to salads. We climbed to the top of the 122ft high hill, Easdale's highest point, which offers unrivalled views of the Firth of Lorn to the north and many other islands to the south.  On this clear day we had good views of Luing, Scarba, Lunga, Jura, Colonsay and Islay.  Below us a single Black Guillemot in summer plumage, dark black, relieved only by a white wing patch, bobbed on the sea.  Out to sea two groups of Eider flew by, one group of six and another of thirteen and three Oystercatchers attracted our attention as they called noisily in flight.

As we continued around the island passing several more quarries we found the ruins of what must have been a pumping house and further on the explosives building.  All around is evidence of the slate quarrying that lasted from the middle of the 17th century to the early 20th century. The Island had as many as seven working quarries, some of which had a depth of 300 feet below sea level.  The island gave its name to the famous Easdale Slate which was exported all over the world.

To complete our walk and a superb morning on Easdale, we called in a Tina's house for coffee and cake.  However after a short rest, we thanked her for her hospitality and headed for the ferry.  The ferryman was soon collecting our fares and returning us back across that small stretch of water to Ellenabeich and lunch at the Oyster Bar.

We met at the Tigh an Truish at 0800 hours for our journey down to Gigha. Our numbers had swelled to twelve, so we were able to take three fully loaded cars.  Our journey down to Kintyre was uneventful and we arrived safely at the car park at Ronachan Point by 1000 hours. The weather was still dry and the sea fairly calm as we gathered to do some sea watching, a new experience for some of our members.

A group of five Shag sat on one group of rocks whilst two Cormorant were on another.  Common Seals of varying colour and size lay lazily on some more rocks and despite our presence were not disturbed. In a bay over to our right a Great Northern Diver kept disappearing from sight as it dived for food. We also recorded Red-breasted Mergansers, Oystercatcher,  a single Ringed Plover and gulls.  To add to our growing list three winter plumaged Black-throated Divers showed well in front of us, their black and white throats clearly visible.

Our next stop was Rhunahaorine Point next to the West Coast Salmon site further down the peninsula.  We walked down to the beach and as usual here the birds are closer to the shore. We had excellent views of another three Black-throated Divers and in the distance a Red-throated Diver completed the set of all three divers. We soon picked up a beautiful summer plumaged Slavonian Grebe near a group of eight Eider Duck and six Red-breasted Mergansers were close by. A further five Black-throated Divers brought our total to eight.  A Black Guillemot flew to our right and a single Razorbill was also noted. To complete an excellent selection of birds a group of around twenty Common Scoter moved away to our left. 

Once everyone had had an opportunity to see these birds, it was time to head for Tayinloan to catch the 1200 hours ferry to Gigha.  On the way south some members had good views of several hundred White-fronted Geese in the fields past Rhunahaorine and possibly a few Barnacle Geese.  We arrived at Tayinloan in good time for the ferry and several members had a walk into the village, whilst the rest checked out the bay to discover Shelduck, Wigeon, Lapwing and Curlew.  We reassembled back at the ferry terminal as the ferry arrived from Gigha.  We soon all aboard and heading for Gigha and our lunch.

Within twenty minutes we were landing on the island and heading towards to the Gigha Hotel.  Gigha is  the most southerly and one of the most beautiful of the Hebridean Islands. It is seven miles long by a mile and a half wide, and is situated three miles west of the Kintyre peninsular. Gigha is breathtaking – sandy beaches, clear green seas, and a host of wildlife.  The island is community owned with a  population of about one hundred and thirty and was purchased by the residents in 2002.

We continued along the road by Ardminish Bay and crossed a field to arrive at the Hotel. We had all now built up a good appetite and after collecting some drinks from the bar enjoyed an excellent meal in the comfortable restaurant. We discovered that a photographic exhibition was opening in a building next to the hotel so some of the group took advantage of this and a glass of free wine. The remainder of us took a walk up to Achamore Gardens and then visited the ruins of Kilchattan Church and the cemetery. The graveyard held some fascinating grave stones and we spent some time reading the inscriptions.  Situated just behind the ruins of Kilchattan Church, is the Cnoc A'Charraidh (Hill of the Pillar) on which stands the well known Ogham Stone.

It was now time to head back to catch to the ferry at 1530 hours and we joined up with the others at the hotel to return to the ferry terminal.  This had been a full day out, with excellent company, not to mention the obliging birds, and as we crossed the short stretch of water back to Tayinloan, I felt this had been a most enjoyable and rewarding day. 

Due to the tide times we made an early start at 0830 hours, but this did not deter our members as we had a good attendance of twelve.  We walked across the golf course and then followed the road east towards Balvicar Farm and the seashore.  Just past Winterton on a telegraph wire a solitary Reed Bunting was sat calling.  This area around Winterton and the golf course is a good place to see this species. As we reached the bay a selection of birds awaited us, two Shelduck, several Wigeon, Mallard, Curlew, and two Oystercatchers.

Laminated  identification sheets were provided to assist our group and we started out in pairs looking for five of the more commoner brown species of seaweed to be found on the rocky shore. Seaweeds are all algae and are classified into a separate kingdom from true plants.  Like true plants, they photosynthesise using the green pigment chlorophyll.  Bladder, Spiral, Egg, Channelled and Serrated Wrack were soon found with the aid of the charts, as we searched along the muddy uppershore.  Two other species were also discovered including Sea Lettuce and Kelp.

We then moved onto molluscs and crustaceans, finding  Periwinkles, Cockles, Mussels, Oyster, Whelks, Common Otter, Acorn Barnacle, Limpet and Tortoiseshell Limpet.  Molluscs are soft bodied animals but most have shells and the phylum is divided into various classes.  Mussels with their two hinged shells are examples of bi-valves and are filter feeders. Most gastropods(snails and limpets) have one external shell and are mainly grazers eating dead or dying plant material. Crustaceans are a common group including lobsters, crabs, shrimps, sea slaters, and barnacles. They have paired jointed limbs and a chalky external covering.

The group continued to search for other marine creatures and we soon discovered razor shell, sea squirt, sand hoppers, shore crab, whelk eggs and thanks to Carl a beadlet anemone.  An unfortunate find further along the uppershore was a dead Razorbill, but this did enable members to get a close look at this attractive Auk. We inspected several crustose lichens growing on the rocks and attempted to identify them. The first was Black Shields (Lecanora atra Acharius) a grey and black lichen about 100mm across, with small black craters. Another was Caloplaca marina, a greenish yellow crustose. 

There was now a biting cold south easterly wind blowing along the shore and the general consensus was that we should retire to warmer climes.  We climbed the bank above the shore to stop momentarily to look at the site of a former hill fort of Celtic origin probably dating back to 600 BC.  This concluded another successful field trip for the SNHG.

The weather was set today to provide us with the opportunity of an excellent mid-week walk. We met at Cuan ready to catch the 0945 hours ferry to Luing. As we stood waiting for the ferry two Black Guillemot flew through Cuan Sound and a Rock Dove was almost missed, as it slowly probed along the shoreline. We had a good view of the strong currents in Cuan Sound where depending on wind and tide there are sometimes standing waves.  We were soon boarding the ferry, and in no time being met by Rosy and Zoe to swell our numbers to eight.

We left the slipway taking the path beside the ferry shed and followed the small bay, passing through a gate. We left the pylon on our left and followed the path between old water filled quarries and an old derelict building. The whole area is full of old slate  workings and commands views across to Ellenabeich, Easdale and Mull. We discovered a pile of discarded slate, full of iron pyrite (fool's gold).  This slate was classed as low grade, for when the pyrites are loosened it can leave holes which allow the ingress of water.

Further on Zoe pointed out some large limestone boulders containing wafers of marble (calcium carbonate).  These seams were created by the recrystalisation of the pre-existing rock at the beginning of the Tertiary period, some 60 million years ago.  The eruption of the volcano on Mull produced such heat and pressure that these seams were formed.  The whole area was covered in these unusual rock formations.

We continued on round to Port Mary and investigated the beach, to discover several species of seaweed. There were four types of brown seaweed which grow on the upper shore, channelled, serrated, spiral and bladder wrack, and two types of green seaweed, sea lettuce and cladophora which grow lower down.  Some of the larger red Oarweed  had also been washed up on the shore, probably from one of our recent storms.  From here we had good views across the Firth of Lorn to the Garvellachs and to Belnahua where old derelict buildings are still visible.  These formed the houses and quarry buildings of a time not too long ago.

We turned inland now, passing several Luing cattle, and followed the farm track uphill and passing through a farm gate.  As we did so, two Skylarks called as they flew overhead, giving the impression that spring was not far away. At the brow of the hill, we had good views down towards Torsa, Ardinamir Bay and Craobh Haven.  On reaching the main road we turned south to have a look at two small bays hoping to see the otters.  In the last bay we found a Curlew, several Red-breasted Mergansers and two Mallard.  Then to our delight Rosy spotted the two otters playing in the sea near Torsa Beg, a mother and her young.  They then headed towards Torsa Beg and spent some time playing amongst some rocks on the foreshore.

It was now unfortunately time to return to the ferry, to catch the 1230 hours crossing back to Seil. As we approached the caravan park, we spotted Rosy's husband Mike out with his camera. We soon realised what he was trying to photograph as to our amazement four Bottle-nosed Dolphins were darting about and leaping out of the sea, giving an incredible display.  This was my first experience of Dolphins close to the island and it was a great thrill.

The Dolphin pictures are by courtesy of Mike and Rosy Barlow

This walk had produced more than I could ever have imagined, great scenery, history, geology, seaweeds, birds, otters and those wonderful Bottle-nosed Dolphins.  How will I ever find another walk to match this superb walk on Luing.  Our thanks goes to Rosy Barlow and Zoe Fleming, two of our members, who made this all possible. I don't think it will be too long before we are returning to Luing to discover more of it's secrets. 

We started out from Balvicar at 0700 hours and had an uneventful journey to Blairdrummond Safari Park, where we met John Simpson our guide at 0930 hours.  On our way to the Slamannan Plateau we stopped off at the Carse of Stirling to look at a flock of about five hundred Pink-feet Geese. They were distant views, but with our telescopes they were clearly identifiable. In another nearby field was a small flock of about fifty Greylag Geese.  This was obviously Goose country !

We travelled south now on the M80/A80 and then left the motorway at Castlecarry. The area we were to cover was approximately five square miles with the chance of the Bean Geese being in any one of around three hundred and fifty fields. Add this to the fact that Geese are very secretive and this task was going to be very difficult. This area had previously been opencast and had been replanted and restored, although some areas were not as good as others. Our search took us to various prime locations but without success. There was a shooting party in the area which was also a hindrance. A call at the mining village of Slamannan produced Pink-feet and Greylag's again but not the elusive Bean. We eventually took to walking and visited a bridleway leading to Beam Farm a favoured location of the Bean Geese. Still no success, but we did meet the landowner from Beam Farm who expressed the problems he was having with the local planning authority. As this is a specially protected area, restrictions have been placed on applications. However there is a payment scheme to encourage landowners to attract Bean Geese to their land.  Despite not finding the Bean Geese we got a good feel for the area and some of the difficulties in maintaining this very important over-wintering species here in Central Scotland.

Check out BBC article on Bean Geese Protection :-

http://news.bbc.co.uk/nolpda/ukfs_news/hi/newsid_4702000/4702798.stm

Lunch was a quick affair at the Castlecarry Hotel before heading north to Argaty. We arrived in good time and took up our place in the observation hide. Argaty Red Kites is situated north of Stirling on Lerrocks Farm, a working farm in the Braes of Doune. It is with the help of the SNH and the RSPB that this facility was made available for enjoying this very special bird. A small amount of food (venison) was put out close to the hide and we waited for the action. Several Red Kites were circling in the sky but all seemed reluctant to come down for the chunks of venison. The first recipient was a Common Buzzard followed by three Magpies.  It took nearly half an hour before the Kites, unable to wait any longer, swooped down for the food. There were approximately seventeen to twenty Kites in the air at any one time. The warden explained that the food was restricted, and to later in the day, so as to prevent the Kites becoming too dependant on this food.

 

This group of re-introduced birds here in Central Scotland is one of three sites in the United Kingdom, the others being Oxford and the Black Isle near Inverness. All these populations have been successful and are growing steadily. This reintroduction into Central Scotland sees the Red Kite back here after one hundred and thirty years. Each bird is fitted with wing tags, the left wing to identify the site e.g. Red for Central Scotland and the right wing tag represents the year e.g. Purple for 2007.

More information can be found on the Argaty Red Kites website :-

http://www.argatyredkites.co.uk/

 

We left Lerrocks Farm at three o'clock and arrived back at Balvicar at six o'clock after several stops to keep awake. It had been a tiring day, but very worthwhile  !

I met Carl Farmer at the Tigh an Truish car park at 08:30 hours to complete a Bird Atlas TTV survey for NM71U.  From here we took one car and parked on the road leading down to Ardencaple. As we reached the bridge and the estuary leading to Loch Caithlim,  several Wigeon could be heard whistling and a group of four Teal were skulking in the background.

After speaking to Carl Bonner the gamekeeper about our route we set off through the black gates on the left just below the lodge and made our way to Ardfad Castle. We climbed the hill at the side of the house and took in the views across to Mull.  We then dropped back down behind the house to see the small lake with two resident Mute Swans.  It was good to see the edges of the lake well endowed with Reed Mace and Soft Rush. It was also pleasing to see the overflow planted with Phragmites, the first I had seen here on the island.

Continuing on we came to a sheltered bay to the north-west of the castle, and enjoyed a few minutes taking in the Little Grebes, Red-breasted Mergansers, Oystercatchers and the total peace and quiet.

All that remains of the castle is a flattened mound with a single tree to one side, but close by are some old cottages which remain in good condition, with glass still in the windows. On inspecting the mortar filled walls surrounding the cottages we discovered Maidenhair Spleenwort, Black Spleenwort, Wall Rue and Hart's Tongue Fern, all new species to be recorded by myself.

We returned keeping close to the house this time, with the lake to our right but never entering the private grounds of the house, which is of course out of bounds.

A daring decision was taken to undertake this trip, as the forecast was for force six southerly winds, but as we assembled at Balvicar Jetty, it was apparent we had made the right choice. The weather was dry and the wind had dropped slightly.

Our first sighting was a Little Grebe fishing close to the jetty, and several Eider were out in the bay. As we moved down Seil Sound, Eider and Red-breasted Merganser moved out of the way as we gained speed heading south for Torsa, Luing, Scarba, Jura and the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.

Seil Sound produced Herring, Common and Black-headed Gulls and a single winter plumaged Black Guillemot. As we approached Cleit's Rock near Torsa, the island was hardly visible as it was covered in sixty-seven Shag.  Passing down the east side of Torsa we had good views of Con Castle (Dog's Castle) and we learnt a little of its history. At the southern end of Luing we had a good flock of twenty-five Lapwing, a fairly uncommon sight these days.

We picked up speed again now, heading for the Corryvreckan.  Our first sighting of White-tailed Sea Eagle was a juvenile sat in a stand of trees close to the shore. He eventually took flight and moved south, giving wonderful views. The sea now became very rough as we entered the Corryvreckan, an experience not to be missed.  A good number of Wild Goats were feeding on the northern end of Jura and a Red Deer could be seen on distant rocks. Two Golden Eagles were sighted, an immature bird and an adult, in an area that regularly produces these birds.

We nearly ran down a Guillemot as we navigated through the whirlpool, and this was only one of two we counted. More excitement followed as we picked up one then two adult White-tailed Sea Eagles heading East along Scarba. David turned the boat and followed the two birds around the coast of Scarba.  We hadn't gone long before the two Eagles were soaring above us, giving wonderful views. The two previous Golden Eagles sightings, seem to pale into insignificance.

We continued north now to head through the Grey Dogs at the north end of Scarba. We had good views of a stag Red Deer here before moving north again past Fladda Lighthouse. This is close to Belnahua one of the original Slate Islands and an interesting place to visit, with some derelict slate workers cottages.  Several Common Seals were noted near Cuan, but no Grey Seals. Moving back towards Balvicar along Seil Sound we again disturbed a winter plumaged Black Guillemot, probably the same bird as before. A single Grey Heron was sat fishing on the shore close to the heronry at Ballachuan and several Black-headed Gulls floated by.  We arrived back at Balvicar Jetty, exhilarated by the experience and thankful we had dared to risk the weather. 

I met Bob Grove at the Tigh an Truish at 1400 hrs on 29th November 2007 to show him the Tetrad NM71 (Z) for the Bird Atlas 2007-2011. More importantly I introduced him to Fiona behind the bar whilst I drank a glass of Highlander. As we started our walk, the weather was reasonable, considering the amount of rain that had preceded our visit.

Buzzard and  Raven were quickly noted, and looking north from Clachan Bridge a pair of Great Black-backed Gulls were sat on the water in Clachan Sound.  Pheasants were calling from all directions, probably following a recent release of young birds.

To our left a pair of Mistle Thrush sat on the telephone wires and a group of five Long-tailed Tits were busily feeding in a small bush.  At Auchnasaul we turned right towards Ardmaddy as a pair of Hooded Crows flew along the ridge above us.  Another bird attracted my attention as it flew across the road into some trees, a Great Spotted Woodpecker, a fairly uncommon species in this area.

To our right over open marshland a Sparrowhawk glided silently east, whilst to our right a Kestrel hovered over the marsh.  As we approached Ardshellach Farm, a group of thirteen Meadow Pipits sat on the wires along with a single Pied Wagtail. After chatting with Doreen Gilbert from the farm we made our way along the new access road towards Clachan Seil Sound.

We finally reached the shoreline and whilst I was interestingly looking at a good selection of seaweeds, Bob shouted "Otter". I later discovered at the Community Council Meeting, that a dog Otter has been regularly appearing in the Sound at about 1600 hours most days, and has also been observed by several thrilled Scottish Water workmen.

We continued along the strandline to Clachan Bridge occasionally making detours away from the water where access was difficult. It was almost dusk now and the whistles of several Wigeon could heard clearly, and Curlew also landed on the opposite bank. 

Eventually as the tide was coming in we had to leave the shoreline and find our way across rough scrub back to the road. This was hard going, but on reaching our goal we proved this circular walk was possible. The whole walk had taken us two and a half hours but the "Otter" sighting had made the experience very worthwhile.

This field trip was billed as an introduction to Ballachuan Hazel Wood but it was more than that. The inclement weather took us into the beautiful Kilbrandon Church as though drawn by some external force. I was soon, without thinking, giving a sermon according to Natural History with a bit of early pagan Celtic history thrown in. It didn't altogether feel right but it was what I had planned to say.

Apart from introducing our members to the wonderful reserve we have on our doorstep, I had taken the opportunity to do a count of a very special lichen here at Ballachuan, 'Hazel Gloves'  (Hypocreopsis rhododendri) that grows on trees, especially hazel. It is a Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) species and a Local(BAP) species here in Argyll. The fruiting body has swollen orange fingers that radiate from a central point and can look like a small orange glove that often clasps the hazel stem. Throughout our two hour visit to Ballachuan the rain was torrential  and only the shelter of the trees made the experience tolerable. With the help of Fiona Lackie's son Callum, we managed to count seventy three 'Hazel Gloves' and that was only on the periphery of the path through the wood. This was a good count and indicates what a important site for this BAP species this represents.

As we emerged from the western side of the wood, we flushed a Woodcock, but it soon flashed passed us, and disappeared back into the hazel wood. The rain was still persistent and had soaked most of us through. Despite this, the morning had been enjoyable and our eleven members headed back to their cars with some sense of achievement. If we can survive this, we can survive anything !!

http://seilnature.spaces.live.com/

The climate here on the West Coast of Scotland is influenced by the 'Gulf Stream', which produces a warm oceanic current flowing through the area. This climate, unique in Europe is described as extreme oceanic i.e. it is influenced by the surrounding seas.   This produces extreme humidity and high rainfall, with persistent cloudy days particularly in winter, similar to the period we have experienced over the last week.

Woodland Lichens, Fungi and Algae all thrive on this mild wet climate and local trees are dripping with these species. A number of these Lichens are endemic to Scotland which means there are found no where else in the world.  Lichens are a good indicator of air quality, for they do not grow well where there is air pollution. Scotland however holds the largest reservoirs of pure air in the United Kingdom, if not Europe and Seil is no exception.

Atlantic Hazelwood's are fairly unique to this part of the world and form pure woods on steep slopes facing the sea. They have occupied these sites for many thousands of years and the thinner stems are covered in a dense pale mosaic of lichens, whilst the older growth supports a different range of leafy species e.g.Lobaria Pulmonaria as shown below.  One example of this is the Ballachuan Hazel Wood nature reserve managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, which is at the southern tip of Seil Island. With over 250 species recorded, the reserve has been designated a site of international importance for lichens by the British Lichen Society.

Photographs courtesy of Astrid Horward and Richard Wesley

Walking along the bay this week I met a Winklepicker, (no not the shoe) but a collector of Winkles.  This led me to ask a few questions and I was soon learning about a world I knew very little. Common Periwinkles (to give them their correct name) are apparently best harvested at a full or new moon when the tides are at their lowest and it is also helpful if the barometric pressure is high.  When the tides are low more periwinkles are exposed and they are easier to collect. This week therefore had the perfect conditions for a good haul

Winkles prefer stony ground rather than mud and can also be found under seaweed.  They feed on microscopic algae that coat the rocks. Obviously a strong back is a requirement for this employment and I would not last two minutes with my bad back.  Most Winkles end up in Spain or France these days as they are more highly prized than here in the United Kingdom.  This led me on to consider other mollusc's that inhabit the bay and a list ensued i.e. Mussels, Cockles, Scallop, Limpet, Barnacle, Whelks, Razor Shell and finally Oyster.  A veritable feast one might say, all free to collect and with the right cooking, delicious to eat.

So get out on the shoreline and see how many species you can identify. That includes seaweeds, jelly fish, starfish, crabs, eels and lugworms. There are also beautiful lichens growing on the many rocks that abound the Isle Of Seil.  Take a digital camera with you and record everything you find.  Then you can sit in the comfort of your own warm home later, and take time over the identification.

There are three Divers (Loons as they are called in North America) that it is possible to see around these waters out of the breeding season, These are Great Northern, Black-throated and Red-throated Diver. Probably the most common would be Red-throated Diver and at this time of the year, they would appear in their winter-plumage as shown below.  So it was not too surprising to discover a Red-throated Diver in Seil Sound on Wednesday afternoon.

I have included below pictures of Black-throated  and Great Northern Diver to help with identification. As you can see identifying them is not easy, particularly at distance. The Red-throated Diver is slighter than the other two with a grey and white head and upturned bill which gives it a particular jizz. The Black-throated Diver below has a distinctive white patch to the rear flank and has a more clear black and white head.

The Great Northern Diver is the daddy, looking chunkier and more powerful.  It is lacking the smart contrasts of the Black-throated and is generally a more messier looking bird, without the rear white patch. In the breeding season they all transform into more beautiful birds with stunning plumages.