The Balvicar Blog

As we walked down the road to Kilbrandon House and the entrance to Ballachuan Nature Reserve the roadside verges were full of wild flowers. Some of the more common species identified included Red Campion, Common Sorrel, Pignut, Catsear, Bird’s Foot Trefoil, Tormentil, Silverweed, Wild Thyme and Foxgloves. In the ditches we also found rarer species such as Ragged Robin, Marsh Cinquefoil and Valerian.

Once into the reserve there were many Heath Spotted Orchids and several of the darker purple Northern Marsh Orchids. Although it was rather cool we soon spotted the first of several Small Heath butterflies and a couple of Common Blues. A few black Chimney Sweeper Moths were also evident low in the grass and rushes. A Sedge Warbler was singing loudly from the ditch on the edge of the reserve and a Stonechat accompanied him chatting away close by.

We were now searching for the rare Marsh Fritillary butterfly which breeds on the reserve and although the conditions were not perfect we did find one specimen which was very obliging and allowed some photography. This is a UK Biodiversity Action Plan species which is in severe decline, except here in Argyll. Its food plant is the Devil's Bit Scabious which is abundant here on Seil.

We left the grassland and headed into the hazel wood in search of more species. We were soon rewarded with a couple of Speckled Wood butterflies which prefer the more shadier conditions of the woodland, but more surprising found another Marsh Fritillary butterfly which again gave good opportunities for photography.

As we emerged from the woodland near the entrance we were lucky not to tread on a male Golden-ringed Dragonfly which was vibrating its wings on the edge of the path. This completed an excellent morning giving our members the chance to observe several rare species.

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The ferry crossing to Easdale Island is a short one and on a good day is extremely enjoyable.  However stormy weather can cause the service to be cancelled and sever this vital lifeline for the islanders. Today we were fortunate and the crossing of some two hundred metres was uneventful and smooth.   Easdale is an island of only eleven hectares, and has a population of roughly sixty, probably one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Inner Hebrides.

After meeting Tina, our host for the day, we headed for the quarry where the world stone skimming championships are held.  We passed the  Easdale Island Folk Museum which unfortunately was not open until Easter, but we did see a pair of House Sparrows carrying nesting material into the roof.  We also investigated a hole which could have been the home of a small weasel, stoat or mink .  Several creatures, snakes, rabbits, hedgehogs and mice could be eliminated as they are not to be found on the island.

As we left the white painted rows of cottages several birds we singing marking their territories on this spring morning. A Greenfinch was emitting his nasal wheeze, whilst a Wren began his explosive song only to be drowned by a Song Thrush starting his repetitive call.  Leaving the village behind and walking towards the south we passed beneath what was formerly and old railway viaduct and within a short distance found a small well which could have been the original water supply for the island. To our right was a steep ridge which runs north-west to south-east across the island.  It's ivy covered ledges face south and provide ideal nesting sites for several species of bird. On top of the ridge a Hooded Crow was busily gathering moss to line his nest, whilst below a Greenfinch was checking for nest sites.

In the more sheltered areas Primroses and Lesser Celandine were already in flower.  We also discovered some Scurvy Grass which was extensively eaten in the past by sailors suffering from scurvy after returning from long voyages. The leaves are rich in vitamin C which cures this deficiency disease, resulting from a lack of fresh vegetables in the diet. The leaves, which have a strong peppery taste are similar to the related horseradish and watercress and are also sometimes added to salads. We climbed to the top of the 122ft high hill, Easdale's highest point, which offers unrivalled views of the Firth of Lorn to the north and many other islands to the south.  On this clear day we had good views of Luing, Scarba, Lunga, Jura, Colonsay and Islay.  Below us a single Black Guillemot in summer plumage, dark black, relieved only by a white wing patch, bobbed on the sea.  Out to sea two groups of Eider flew by, one group of six and another of thirteen and three Oystercatchers attracted our attention as they called noisily in flight.

As we continued around the island passing several more quarries we found the ruins of what must have been a pumping house and further on the explosives building.  All around is evidence of the slate quarrying that lasted from the middle of the 17th century to the early 20th century. The Island had as many as seven working quarries, some of which had a depth of 300 feet below sea level.  The island gave its name to the famous Easdale Slate which was exported all over the world.

To complete our walk and a superb morning on Easdale, we called in a Tina's house for coffee and cake.  However after a short rest, we thanked her for her hospitality and headed for the ferry.  The ferryman was soon collecting our fares and returning us back across that small stretch of water to Ellenabeich and lunch at the Oyster Bar.

We met at the Tigh an Truish at 0800 hours for our journey down to Gigha. Our numbers had swelled to twelve, so we were able to take three fully loaded cars.  Our journey down to Kintyre was uneventful and we arrived safely at the car park at Ronachan Point by 1000 hours. The weather was still dry and the sea fairly calm as we gathered to do some sea watching, a new experience for some of our members.

A group of five Shag sat on one group of rocks whilst two Cormorant were on another.  Common Seals of varying colour and size lay lazily on some more rocks and despite our presence were not disturbed. In a bay over to our right a Great Northern Diver kept disappearing from sight as it dived for food. We also recorded Red-breasted Mergansers, Oystercatcher,  a single Ringed Plover and gulls.  To add to our growing list three winter plumaged Black-throated Divers showed well in front of us, their black and white throats clearly visible.

Our next stop was Rhunahaorine Point next to the West Coast Salmon site further down the peninsula.  We walked down to the beach and as usual here the birds are closer to the shore. We had excellent views of another three Black-throated Divers and in the distance a Red-throated Diver completed the set of all three divers. We soon picked up a beautiful summer plumaged Slavonian Grebe near a group of eight Eider Duck and six Red-breasted Mergansers were close by. A further five Black-throated Divers brought our total to eight.  A Black Guillemot flew to our right and a single Razorbill was also noted. To complete an excellent selection of birds a group of around twenty Common Scoter moved away to our left. 

Once everyone had had an opportunity to see these birds, it was time to head for Tayinloan to catch the 1200 hours ferry to Gigha.  On the way south some members had good views of several hundred White-fronted Geese in the fields past Rhunahaorine and possibly a few Barnacle Geese.  We arrived at Tayinloan in good time for the ferry and several members had a walk into the village, whilst the rest checked out the bay to discover Shelduck, Wigeon, Lapwing and Curlew.  We reassembled back at the ferry terminal as the ferry arrived from Gigha.  We soon all aboard and heading for Gigha and our lunch.

Within twenty minutes we were landing on the island and heading towards to the Gigha Hotel.  Gigha is  the most southerly and one of the most beautiful of the Hebridean Islands. It is seven miles long by a mile and a half wide, and is situated three miles west of the Kintyre peninsular. Gigha is breathtaking – sandy beaches, clear green seas, and a host of wildlife.  The island is community owned with a  population of about one hundred and thirty and was purchased by the residents in 2002.

We continued along the road by Ardminish Bay and crossed a field to arrive at the Hotel. We had all now built up a good appetite and after collecting some drinks from the bar enjoyed an excellent meal in the comfortable restaurant. We discovered that a photographic exhibition was opening in a building next to the hotel so some of the group took advantage of this and a glass of free wine. The remainder of us took a walk up to Achamore Gardens and then visited the ruins of Kilchattan Church and the cemetery. The graveyard held some fascinating grave stones and we spent some time reading the inscriptions.  Situated just behind the ruins of Kilchattan Church, is the Cnoc A'Charraidh (Hill of the Pillar) on which stands the well known Ogham Stone.

It was now time to head back to catch to the ferry at 1530 hours and we joined up with the others at the hotel to return to the ferry terminal.  This had been a full day out, with excellent company, not to mention the obliging birds, and as we crossed the short stretch of water back to Tayinloan, I felt this had been a most enjoyable and rewarding day. 

Due to the tide times we made an early start at 0830 hours, but this did not deter our members as we had a good attendance of twelve.  We walked across the golf course and then followed the road east towards Balvicar Farm and the seashore.  Just past Winterton on a telegraph wire a solitary Reed Bunting was sat calling.  This area around Winterton and the golf course is a good place to see this species. As we reached the bay a selection of birds awaited us, two Shelduck, several Wigeon, Mallard, Curlew, and two Oystercatchers.

Laminated  identification sheets were provided to assist our group and we started out in pairs looking for five of the more commoner brown species of seaweed to be found on the rocky shore. Seaweeds are all algae and are classified into a separate kingdom from true plants.  Like true plants, they photosynthesise using the green pigment chlorophyll.  Bladder, Spiral, Egg, Channelled and Serrated Wrack were soon found with the aid of the charts, as we searched along the muddy uppershore.  Two other species were also discovered including Sea Lettuce and Kelp.

We then moved onto molluscs and crustaceans, finding  Periwinkles, Cockles, Mussels, Oyster, Whelks, Common Otter, Acorn Barnacle, Limpet and Tortoiseshell Limpet.  Molluscs are soft bodied animals but most have shells and the phylum is divided into various classes.  Mussels with their two hinged shells are examples of bi-valves and are filter feeders. Most gastropods(snails and limpets) have one external shell and are mainly grazers eating dead or dying plant material. Crustaceans are a common group including lobsters, crabs, shrimps, sea slaters, and barnacles. They have paired jointed limbs and a chalky external covering.

The group continued to search for other marine creatures and we soon discovered razor shell, sea squirt, sand hoppers, shore crab, whelk eggs and thanks to Carl a beadlet anemone.  An unfortunate find further along the uppershore was a dead Razorbill, but this did enable members to get a close look at this attractive Auk. We inspected several crustose lichens growing on the rocks and attempted to identify them. The first was Black Shields (Lecanora atra Acharius) a grey and black lichen about 100mm across, with small black craters. Another was Caloplaca marina, a greenish yellow crustose. 

There was now a biting cold south easterly wind blowing along the shore and the general consensus was that we should retire to warmer climes.  We climbed the bank above the shore to stop momentarily to look at the site of a former hill fort of Celtic origin probably dating back to 600 BC.  This concluded another successful field trip for the SNHG.

The weather was set today to provide us with the opportunity of an excellent mid-week walk. We met at Cuan ready to catch the 0945 hours ferry to Luing. As we stood waiting for the ferry two Black Guillemot flew through Cuan Sound and a Rock Dove was almost missed, as it slowly probed along the shoreline. We had a good view of the strong currents in Cuan Sound where depending on wind and tide there are sometimes standing waves.  We were soon boarding the ferry, and in no time being met by Rosy and Zoe to swell our numbers to eight.

We left the slipway taking the path beside the ferry shed and followed the small bay, passing through a gate. We left the pylon on our left and followed the path between old water filled quarries and an old derelict building. The whole area is full of old slate  workings and commands views across to Ellenabeich, Easdale and Mull. We discovered a pile of discarded slate, full of iron pyrite (fool's gold).  This slate was classed as low grade, for when the pyrites are loosened it can leave holes which allow the ingress of water.

Further on Zoe pointed out some large limestone boulders containing wafers of marble (calcium carbonate).  These seams were created by the recrystalisation of the pre-existing rock at the beginning of the Tertiary period, some 60 million years ago.  The eruption of the volcano on Mull produced such heat and pressure that these seams were formed.  The whole area was covered in these unusual rock formations.